The Republic of South Africa (or simply “South Africa”) is emerging as one of the world’s most exciting New World wine producing regions.  To characterize an age-old place like South Africa as “New World” and “emerging” may sound somewhat Eurocentric, but speaking strictly in wine terms it makes sense.  It is a New World wine region in that it was the early European settlers (including Dutch, English, and French Huguenots, among others) who brought grapevines from Europe to South Africa and began cultivating them for wine production. While South Africa’s winemaking culture took root over 300 years ago, today it’s considered an emerging wine region as only within the past decade, or so (the post-Apartheid era), has it begun to establish a respectable presence, reputation and recognition in the global wine market. 

In a world of ever-proliferating wine brands, South African winemakers have worked tirelessly to gain a foothold in the industry and on store shelves.  The good news for you, wine devotee, is that they’re making great progress.  In just the past few years, the number of wineries in South Africa has more than doubled, and an export-oriented approach to production and marketing has significantly increased the number of South African wine brands and varietals available to consumers in the United States and elsewhere.

Growing demand for wine worldwide has no doubt helped South Africa find its place at the table, but the foundation for the country’s success is much deeper.  Winemakers have modernized their production facilities and techniques, thanks in part to foreign partners and investors, bringing them in line with the rest of the winemaking world.  The country also enjoys an ideal climate and geography for growing high-quality wine grapes.  The coastal growing areas benefit from cool breezes whipping off the surrounding Atlantic and Indian Oceans; the inland growing areas benefit from a sunny, arid climate and high, mountain slopes; and the soils throughout the country are fertile and diverse. 

These days I taste as many South African wines as I can get my hands on, and expose my wine tasting cohorts to them, as well.  I’ve been intrigued and surprised by the wines, but seldom disappointed.  Those of you who read my recent blog entry When Wine Worlds Collide may recall that at a recent blind tasting I hosted of premium Bordeaux style red blends (“clarets”) from around the world, a South African wine came in a close second to a venerable Napa Valley wine and several notches above the “true” Bordeaux.  (To read that article, go to:  http://www.alextimes.com/blogs/2009/may/11/when-worlds-collide/.)

What I’ve discovered is that South African wines generally offer exceptional character and quality at reasonable prices.  The whites, dominated by Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, tend to be fresh, vibrant and minerally; while the reds, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and South Africa’s unique workhorse varietal called Pinotage, tend to be earthy, spicy and complex.  Best of all, even as South African winemakers labor to make their mark in a highly competitive global marketplace, they have (thus far) resisted pressures to produce generic, “dumb downed” copycat wines.  They can still be counted on to deliver distinctive, interesting and well-crafted alternatives to your standard wine fare.  Wines, in other words, which reflect their place of origin and the skill of the winemaker.

On a recent Saturday, I ran into South African winemaker Johan Jordaan, who was featuring several of his wines at an in-store tasting at Total Wine on Alexandria’s West End.  Jordaan is senior winemaker at Spier Wines, a venerable wine estate established in 1692 in the Stellenbosch region just east of Cape Town.  While tasting his offerings, I asked him about the state of the wine industry in his country.  South African wine producers, he said, are more than ever emphasizing quality over quantity, and are especially keen to showcase South African terroir – meaning the influences of climate, soil and environment on a wine’s flavors and character.  They’re directing their efforts largely at foreign consumers, he added, as wine consumption in South Africa is actually quite low.  In his estimation, upwards of 60% of Spier’s production is exported, and that number could be as high as 70% industry-wide.

Here are some highlights from Spier’s tasting bar that day:

Spier Chenin Blanc, 2008, South Africa ($8):  Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s dominant white variety, used for making table wines as well as brandy.  This rendition features wispy, peach-like aromas that lead to flavors of honey, chamomile and stone fruit.  The wine is light and relaxed, with a soft, creamy texture that makes for an easy-going summer quaffer. 

Spier Sauvignon Blanc, 2008, South Africa ($9):  Sauvignon Blanc flourishes in cool, maritime environments, such as South Africa’s coastal vineyards where the grapes for this wine were sourced.  Aromas of wet rock and woodsmoke are followed by flavors of quince, peach cobbler and dried herbs. The wine is firmly acidic, but very smooth, with just enough grassiness to add dimension.

Spier Vintage Selection Malbec – Cabernet Franc – Petite Verdot, 2006, South Africa ($15):  Made from three traditional Bordeaux varieties, this blend offers earthy aromas of black truffles and leather that introduce a mélange of red and black berry flavors, with highlights of cinnamon and eucalyptus.  The addition of Cabernet Franc contributes a floral dimension that is delicate yet sensual.

Spier Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, South Africa ($20): This single-varietal red exudes aromas that speak to cured tobacco and black tea, followed by burly flavors of black currant, licorice and toast, with a mineral finish.  It’s Spier’s top-of-the-line Cabernet, featuring the classic dark fruit and bramble notes expected of the variety, but with a distinct South African character.

These are but a handful of the South African wines I’ve tasted recently that have been pleasing.  Several other producers are worth recommending, as well. Mulderbosch makes a delightful Chenin Blanc as well as a refreshing rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon; Graham Beck produces fantastic sparkling wines in various styles; Fairview makes some fun wines (including “Goats do Roam”) that pay tribute to the classic wines of France’s Rhone Valley; and Rustenberg makes one of the best Bordeaux-style reds I’ve had in a long time.

Now it's your turn to steer your palate in a southerly direction and make some wine discoveries of your own.

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Scott Hendley is a long-time Alexandria resident and avid wine enthusiast. In addition to being wine blogger for the Alexandria Times, he is wine writer for the Bryce Mountain Courier in Basye, Virginia, and a contributor to the online wine talk show graperadio.com.